Honeycomb Beanie Crochet Pattern (Free + Video Tutorial)
- Lenka
- 3 hours ago
- 8 min read
If you love textured stitches and cozy handmade hats, you’re going to enjoy this one 🤍The Honeycomb Beanie is a simple yet beautiful crochet project that creates a rich, woven-looking texture using easy-to-follow stitches.
This pattern is designed to be made-to-measure, so you can crochet a perfectly fitting beanie for babies, kids, teens, or adults—without stressing over gauge or strict stitch counts.
In this post, you’ll find the free written pattern, along with a full step-by-step video tutorial to guide you through every part of the process.
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This pattern and all images associated with this pattern cannot be sold or claimed as your own. You are allowed to sell finished project. Feel free to mention me for creating this pattern, it would make my day and I can share your finished blanket on my social media if you allow.
Don’t forget to share your project on Instagram! If you have your account you can tag me under @happyheartsy. I would love to see your finished Honeycomb Beanie so I can share it with others.
Before we get into the actual pattern I also created the Ultimate Crochet Hack Sheet! It's 2 pages with basic
crochet abbreviations and symbols, hook sizes in US and UK version, all the yarn types (with recommended hooks and projects) etc. Feel free to click on the pic or a link to my shop where you can find more details.
What you need for this Honeycomb Beanie:
Materials:
Yarn
Yarn Used:
Colour A approx.: 83g/2.93oz, 176m/192yd
Colour B approx.: 40g/1.40oz, 85m/93yd
Hooks - 5mm/H/8
Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional), PomPom (optional)
Gauge - Gauge is not required for this pattern. Follow the instructions provided for your specific size to achieve the correct fit.
Measurements - Instructions are written to fit all sizes, with sizing adjustments included throughout the pattern.
NOTES:
This pattern DOES NOT have specific number of stitches and rows, you’ll be guided how to make your hat fit to your specific size
You start with ribbing and then continue with the body of the hat right away to make a rectangle
Ch 1 after every row is only a turning chain (DOES NOT count as a stitch)
Pompom is optional
Abbreviations:
Ch - chain
FCH - foundation chain
FHDC - foundation half double crochet
St - stitch
HDC - Half Double Crochet
BLO - Back Loop Only
SC - Single Crochet
DIRECTIONS for Honeycomb Beanie
RIBBING
(YouTube - 1:28 - Crochet Ribbing)
This pattern begins with the ribbing, which is worked flat in rows. The ribbing is designed to be long enough to fold and adjust to your preferred style—whether you like a more fitted look or a slightly slouchy hat.
Sizing Note:
The ribbing stitch count provided below is intended for adult sizes.
For kids or newborn hats, start with fewer stitches to create a shorter ribbing height. Adjust the number of starting stitches based on the desired ribbing width.
Directions:
Option 1 – Foundation Chain (YouTube - 2:07 - Foundation Chain & Row 1)
Ch 21
Row 1: HDC in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (20 sts). Ch 1, turn. (Continue with Row 2)
OR
Option 2 – Foundation Half Double Crochet (YouTube - 6:06 - Foundation Half Double Crochet)
20 FHDC - This counts as Row 1. Ch 1, turn..
ROW 2 - your desired length (please see the size chart below) - HDC in the BLO of the first stitch and in the BLO of each stitch across. Ch 1, turn.
Little tip: Crochet the ribbing until it measures about 10% shorter than the head circumference. For example, for a 22” head, crochet the ribbing to approximately 19.5–20”.
The ribbing should feel snug but comfortable and stretch slightly when wrapped around the head.
CROWN
YouTube - 13:13 - Honeycomb Stitch to Ribbing
Switch to your new colour and begin working the crown along the long edge of the ribbing.
Directions (Honeycomb Stitch)
Insert your hook into the last stitch of the last ribbing row. Place the new yarn colour over the hook and pull through. Ch 1 to secure the join. Make 1 SC in the same stitch.
ROW 1 - Then SC all across the row. Ch 1. Turn.
Please note:
There is no specific stitch count for this row. Insert your hook evenly and intuitively along the ribbing edge.
There are 2 rules:
1) Make slightly more SC stitches than the number of ribbing rows. Half double crochet stitches are wider than single crochet stitches, so one ribbing row does not equal one SC.
2) End with an even number of stitches. The honeycomb stitch requires an even stitch count to work correctly.
Don’t worry about being perfectly precise here—what matters most is even spacing and ending with an even number of stitches.
ROW 2 - Sc in each st across the row. After completing this row, fasten off and cut the yarn.
Unfortunately the honeycomb stitch with two colours creates multiple yarn tails. To avoid feeling overwhelmed at the end, it’s best to weave in the ends as you go.
ROW 3 - Join your colour A and make SC into the first st. Next insert your hook into the next stitch, working into the row below, and make a SC spike stitch. (You are pulling the loop up to the height of the current row.) Then keep alternating regular SC into the next stitch and Spike Stitch into the next stitch of the row below.
Continue working across the row, alternating stitches as instructed, and finish with a spike stitch in the last stitch. Fasten off and cut the yarn, then turn.
ROW 4 - Join Colour B, ch 1, and make 1 SC in the first stitch. Insert your hook under the next two vertical legs of the “Vs” shape from the previous row, yarn over, pull up a loop, then complete the stitch as a SC (yarn over and pull through both loops). Make 1 regular SC in the next stitch. Continue alternating between SC worked through the two legs and regular SC across the row.
At the end of the row, make 1 SC in each of the last two stitches, then fasten off and cut the yarn. Turn.
ROW 5 - Join the yarn with ch 1 in the first stitch, then work a spike stitch into the stitch two rows below (skipping one row). Make 1 regular SC in the next stitch. Continue alternating between spike stitch SC and regular SC across the row. At the end just fasten off and cut the yarn. Turn.
Important Note: When working the spike stitch, always check the back side of your work. Make sure the hook pops through from underneath the peak formed by the connected legs in the previous row. Correct hook placement is key to keeping the honeycomb texture neat and well defined. (See the pics below)
ROW 6 - Start with 1SC over first two sts and then continue with SC through the legs of the “Vs”. Then keep alternating between regular SC and SC through legs across the row.
ROW 7 - desired length - Repeat Rows 3–6 until you reach the desired crown height (see the Hat Height Size Chart below). Make sure your last row is a row that connects the legs of the honeycomb stitch.) Also, there will be 2 last rows of decreasing to complete the hat. See the instructions)
Last 2 ROWS - decreasing
YouTube - 29:09 - Decreasing the Last 2 Rows
ROW 1 decrease - Begin the decrease on any row that starts with a spike stitch. To decrease, work SC2tog, combining one regular SC and one spike stitch SC.
Insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Insert your hook into the next stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop. You will now have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops to complete the decrease.
Repeat this decrease across the entire row, working two stitches into one. Because this pattern requires an even stitch count, you should end the row with two stitches remaining, and work your final decrease in those last two stitches.
ROW 2 decrease
Join your next colour and work regular SC2tog across the entire row (there is no need to connect the legs in this row). Leave a longer yarn tail, as it will be used to seam and close the top of the hat.
Important Fit Note:
The hat height listed in the size chart includes the ribbing. If you plan to fold the ribbing, work the crown slightly shorter than the chart measurement, then adjust the final height by folding the ribbing to your preferred style.
SEAMING THE HAT & CLOSING THE TOP (Optional Pompom)
Make sure all yarn tails are woven in securely.
With the hat wrong side out, fold it in half and align the side edges. Using the same yarn colour of the ribbing, seam the sides together with your preferred method. Next, take the longer yarn tail left from the last row and weave it in and out through the stitches around the top opening. When you reach the beginning, gently pull the yarn tight to close the top of the hat, then secure and weave in the end.
If you choose to attach a pompom (I used one with an elastic), keep the hat wrong side out. From the inside of the hat, position the pompom at the top and use the same yarn to pass through the elastic several times to secure it firmly. Finish with a few tight knots.
Turn the hat right side out — and it’s ready to wear.
Ta-da! Your beanie is ready to wear!
I hope you loved crocheting this Honeycomb Beanie as much as I loved designing it. If you enjoyed this pattern, please like and share this post — it truly helps my small crochet business more than you know.
I’d also love to hear from you, so feel free to leave a comment below and let me know how your beanie turned out or which colours you chose. Don’t forget to subscribe for more free crochet patterns, tutorials, and cozy projects coming your way.
And if you share your finished beanie on Instagram, please tag me @happyheartsy — seeing your makes is my absolute favourite part 🧶💛
Happy crocheting,
Lenka
Where happy heart meets crochet art
