The Heartfelt Cardigan | Free Crochet Pattern
I often miss out on major dates throughout the year, such as Valentine's Day, Halloween, and even Christmas. However, this time I planned ahead and created this Heartfelt Cardigan Pattern.
If you're familiar with me and have made the All My Phases Cardigan, you might recognize that this pattern is quite similar. You're correct! I adore its appearance, so I essentially crafted a different design for the back, but aside from some small details, it's pretty much the same.
Let's feel the love and start to crochet.
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This pattern and all images associated with this pattern cannot be sold or claimed as your own.
You are allowed to sell finished project. Feel free to mention me for creating this pattern, it would make my day and I can share your finished blanket on my social media if you allow.
Don’t forget to share your project on Instagram! If you have your account you can tag me under
@happyheartsy. I would love to see your finished Heartfelt Threads Cardigan so I can share it with others.
Before we get into the actual pattern I also created the Ultimate Crochet Hack Sheet! It's 2 pages with basic
crochet abbreviations and symbols, hook sizes in US and UK version, all the yarn types (with recommended hooks and projects) etc. Feel free to click on the pic or a link to my shop where you can find more details.
What you need for this cardigan:
Colour A - Badlands
Colour B - Grand Canyon
Hooks - 6mm / J-10
Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Markers
Numbers of skeins for each size approx.
colour A - 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7)
colour B - 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7)
For Size M - it’s approx.,. 729m/797yd per 1 colour
Gauge
Please, make your swatch before doing this pattern to make sure the cardigan will fit you.
12sts x 9rows = 4” x 4”, 10cm x 10cm
The sizing guide follows size
XS, (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)A. E.g. 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52)A means 28 for XS, 31 for S, 34 for M, 37 for L, 40 for XL, 43 for 2XL, 46 for 3XL, 49 for 4XL, 52 for 5XL all in colour A. When you see B behind the number, it means it's in colour B.
Final measurements for this cardigan for all sizes in inches:
Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68)
Length: 32 for all sizes
Arm depth: 7.75 (8.25, 8.75, 9.25, 9.75, 10.25, 10.75, 11.25, 11.75)
NOTES:
All pattern is made in Half Double Crochet (HDC)
You crochet this cardi from bottom up
Chain 1 after each row is only a turning chain. Does NOT count as a stitch
TIP:
Sadly, I discovered this after my cardigan was already sewn together but you can minimize sewing.
You can proceed with the front panels immediately after completing the back panel. This means, once you finish the back panel, continue using one color only (with the same number of stitches for one half). For the other half, just join the same color and continue that half immediately.
Abbreviations:
Ch - chain
FHDC - foundation half double crochet
St - stitch
HDC - half double crochet
HDC2TOG - 2 Half Double Crochet together (decreasing)
DEC - decreasing
BLO - back loop only
Sl ST - slip stitch
BACK PANEL
Ch 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52) A; 29 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53) B YouTube - 2:48 - Back Panel (FCH + ROW 1)
ROW 1 - Into the 2nd ch make HDC, HDC in every chain until the end of the first half in colour B, then switch the colours and continue with the other half until the end of the row. In total 56 (62, 68, 74, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104) sts.
OR
ROW 1 - Make FHDC 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52) B; 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52) A = counts as a first row
YouTube - 11:45 - Back Panel (FHDC ROW)
ROW 2 - 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52)A, 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52)B
ROW - 3-16 - repeating row 1 and 2 for colour order (one half in Colour A, the other half in Colour B)
ROW 17 - 27 (30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51) B, 1A, 1B, 27 (30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48, 51)A YouTube - 23:23 - Row 17 - Heart Shape
ROW 18 - 26 (29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50)A, 2B, 2A, 26 (29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50)B YouTube - 30:54 - Row 18
ROW 19 - 25 (28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49)B, 2A, 1B, 1A, 2B, 25 (28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49)A YouTube - 36:42 - Row 19
ROW 20 - 24 (27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48)A, 2B, 2A, 2B, 2A, 24 (27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48)B YouTube - 42:41 - Row 20
ROW 21 - 23 (26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47)B, 2A, 3B, 3A, 2B, 23 (26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47)A
ROW 22 - 22 (25, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46)A, 2B, 4A, 4B, 2A, 22 (25, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46)B
ROW 23 - 21 (24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45)B, 2A, 5B, 5A, 2B, 21 (24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45)A
ROW 24 - 20 (23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44)A, 2B, 6A, 6B, 2A, 20 (23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41, 44)B
ROW 25 - 19 (22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43)B, 2A, 7B, 7A, 2B, 19 (22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43)A
ROW 26 - 18 (21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42)A, 2B, 8A, 8B, 2A, 18 (21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42)B
ROW 27 - 17 (20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41)B, 2A, 9B, 9A, 2B, 17 (20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38, 41)A
ROW 28 - 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40)A, 2B, 10A, 10B, 2A, 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40)B
ROW 29 - 15 (18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39)B, 2A, 11B, 11A, 2B, 15 (18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39)A
ROW 30 - 14 (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38)A, 2B, 12A, 12B, 2A, 14 (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38)B
ROW 31 - 14 (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38)B, 2A, 12B, 12A, 2B, 14 (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38)A
ROW 32 - 13 (16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37)A, 2B, 13A, 13B, 2A, 13 (16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37)B
ROW 33 - 13 (16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37)B, 2A, 13B, 13A, 2B, 13 (16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37)A
ROW 34 - 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36)A, 2B, 14A, 14B, 2A, 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36)B
ROW 35 - 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36)B, 2A, 14B, 14A, 2B, 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36)A
ROW 36 - 11 (14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35)A, 2B, 15A, 15B, 2A, 11 (14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35)B
ROW 37 - 11 (14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35)B, 2A, 15B, 15A, 2B, 11 (14, 17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35)A
ROW 38 - 42 - repeat row 36 and 37 for colour order
ROW 43 - 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36)B, 2A, 13B, 1A, 1B, 13A, 2B, 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36)A YouTube - 48:03 -Row 43 (Top Part of the Heart)
ROW 44 - 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36)A, 2B, 12A, 2B, 2A, 12B, 2A, 12 (15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36)B
ROW 45 - 13 (16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37)B, 2A, 10B, 2A, 1B, 1A, 2B, 10A, 2B, 13 (16, 19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37)A
ROW 46 - 14 (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38)A, 3B, 7A, 2B, 2A, 2B, 2A, 7B, 3A, 14 (17, 20, 23, 26, 29, 32, 35, 38)B
ROW 47 - 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40)B, 9A, 3B, 3A, 9B, 16 (19, 22, 25, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40)A
ROW 48 - 18 (21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42)A, 5B, 5A, 5B, 5A, 18 (21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42)B
ROW 49 - 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52)B, 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52)A
ROW 50 - 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52)A, 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52)B
ROW 51 - 65 - repeat row 49 and 50 for colour order
Here is an image of the back panel once it's completed. Don't hesitate to leave longer yarn tails when you're finished; they can be used to seam the front panels together. You'll notice that the colors of yarn A and yarn B are not exactly the same. This is due to the fact that I used scrap yarn and purchased new yarn from a different DIY lot. :)
FRONT PANELS 2x (1x colour A, 1x colour B)
Ch 29 (32, 35, 38, 41, 44, 47, 50, 53)
ROW 1 - Into the 2nd ch make HDC, HDC in every chain until the end of the row. In total 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52) sts
OR
ROW 1 - Make FHDC 28 (31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 46, 49, 52) sts = counts as a first row
ROW 2 - ROW 65 - You make HDC in each stitch. After every row you make ch 1 as turning ch.
SLEEVES 2x
Don’t forget to make this rectangle twice as it’s for the sleeves (1x in colour A, 1x in colour B). You can always adjust this part for your needs. If you feel that 34 rows for the sleeve (before decreasing) it’s too long/short you can always add/reduce as many rows as you need. Please note that there will be 2 rows of decreasing and then the cuff so ROW 36 is not the final size of the sleeve.
Ch 47 (50, 53, 56, 59, 62, 65, 68, 71)
ROW 1 - Into the 2nd ch make HDC, HDC in every chain until the end of the row. In total 46 (49, 52, 55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 70) sts
OR
ROW 1 - Make FHDC 46 (49, 52, 55, 58, 61, 64, 67, 70) sts = counts as a first row
ROW 2 - ROW 34 - You make HDC in each stitch. After every row you make ch 1 as turning ch.
ROW 35 - You start dec in this row about half of the sts from the prev row. You always make HDC2tog with two sts until the end of the row. If you have an odd number of sts, you will make only one HDC into the last stitch. In total 23 (25, 26, 27, 29, 31, 32, 33, 35) sts.
If you feel that it’s still too wide for your wrist you can make another row with decreasing.
ROW 36 - For this row I always made HDC2tog over every 3rd and 4th st. That is the best size for my wrist. If you feel it’s too wide or too tight, you might have to reduce or add more decreasing for this row.
Then secure your sleeve.
SEAMING TIME
Let’s grab your back panel and front panels and align them on the short sides of the same colour for your shoulders. You can use your stitch markers so you can count exactly the number of stitches of the back panel and front panel.
Then, take your yarn needle and with the long tail that you left when finished the back panel seam the panels together. Same way with the other one.
How to make invisible seam: When you see your rows from the top, you can see the V shapes. Insert your yarn needle into the one V shape and pull through from the other (see the pic). This way you alternate between the edges of the panels.
Once you are done, grab your sleeves and align them right in the middle of the sleeves to the seamed part of back panel and front panels. You can use the stitch markers to help with aligning. Then just seam the parts together.
Once your sleeves are seamed together then you fold the cardigan as you’d wear it and you can seam the sides together. Either from the bottom of the cardigan right up to the cuff or from the cuff down to the bottom of the cardigan.
Don’t forget to weave in the ends as you go so you don’t have to do it later :)
RIBBING AROUND THE CARDIGAN
Let’s start at the top of the cardigan and join your opposite colour of the yarn. You start making the ribbing along the side of the cardigan until you hit the corner.
Ch 6. (Pic 1)
ROW 1 - HDC into the 2nd ch. HDC in each ch until the end of the row. (in total 5 sts).
Then 2 sl sts (one sl st to join the row, second one for the new row - pic 2, 3, turn).
ROW 2 - HDC in BLO only.
For the front sides of the cardigan 1 ROW of ribbing = 1 sl st to the one row.
Now continue all the way down to the corner.
THE CORNER
When you make the sl st to the corner for the first time you turn the project right away and continue with the next row. Once you are back you make the sl st again (it’s your second time now) and again you will start the new row (without any other sl st). Once you get back again and connect the row with sl st (your 3rd time) then you continue your ribbing at the bottom.
For the bottom part of the cardigan you connect your row with a sl st to the first st of the cardigan and then you make two more sl sts for the new row! (pic 1, 2) It’s because the bottom part of the cardigan ends with sts and HDC is a little bit taller st so to prevent the shrink we have to do 2 sl sts instead of 1.
So in total when you are done with HDC in BLO you have to make 3 sl sts = 1 for connecting the row and 2 sl st for the next row. The look of the corner is on pic 3.
Continue until you reach the other half of the cardigan in the opposite colour. Switch the colours for the ribbing (it has to be the opposite than the other half) and continue with the ribbing exactly the same way. After your corner, you make only 2 sl sts again as you reach the side of the cardigan where 1 row=1 row of ribbing.
CUFFS
Cuffs are done exactly the same way as the bottom ribbing of the cardigan. Use the opposite colour than your sleeve.
Join the yarn and Ch 6
ROW 1 - Into your 2nd ch HDC, HDC until the end of the row. (in total 5 sts)
Make a 1 sl st to the first st then make another 2 sl sts and turn the project.
ROW 2 - HDC in back loop only in each st until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn.
ROW 3 - HDC in back loop until the end of the row (5 sts in total). 3 sl sts (1 for connecting the row, 2 for the next row and turn)
ROW 4 - until your last st of the sleeve panel - continue in the same way with sl sts and HDC in BLO.
Once you reach the first row just seam the rows together and weave in the ends.
POCKETS (OPTIONAL)
Pockets are optional, feel free to make only one or two. One pocket has Colour A background and Colour B heart, the other pocket it's exactly the opposite.
Ch 26
ROW 1 - HDC into the 2nd ch from the hook, HDC until the end of the row, ch 1. Turn.
OR
ROW 1 - FHDC 25
ROW 2 -3 - 25A
ROW 4 - 12A, 1B, 12A
ROW 5 - 11A, 3B, 11A
ROW 6 - 10A, 5B, 10A
ROW 7 - 9A, 7B, 9A
ROW 8 - 8A, 9B, 8A
ROW 9 - 7A, 11B, 7A
ROW 10 - 12 - 6A, 13B, 6A
ROW 13 - 7A, 5B, 1A, 5B, 7A
ROW 14 - 8A, 3B, 3A, 3B, 8A
ROW 15 - 18 - 25A
SEAMING THE POCKETS
When you are done with your pockets align them on your cardigan. Pick a place where you’d want them and when it would be more comfortable for you. Use your stitch markers so you know exactly where you place them.
Don’t forget to take your notes of their position so you can have them exactly on the same place on each side.
Then grab the yarn needle and the yarn and sew the pockets from one side, around the bottom and other side.
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