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Evergreen Cocoon Shrug Free Crochet Pattern

Cozy up your wardrobe with this Evergreen Cocoon Shrug. This garment is perfect for beginners who wants to try to crochet wearables because this scheme is very simple and basically you can make it with any stitch.

I love this cardigan for its oversized and long style so I can just wrap myself in it.

I also made a video tutorial for this pattern with everything you need to know so definitely check it out if you are more a visual learner.

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This pattern and all images associated with this pattern cannot be sold or claimed as your own.

You are allowed to sell finished Evergreen Cocoon Shrug. Feel free to mention me for creating this

pattern! It would make my day and I can share your finished project on my social media if you allow.

If you need help with this pattern or you have any questions, don't hesitate to email me on I'll be happy to help you:)

Don’t forget to share your project on Instagram! If you have your account you can tag me under

@happyheartsy. I would love to see your finished Evergreen Cocoon Shrug so I can share it with others.

Feel free to check my video tutorial for this pattern where I explain this pattern.


What you need for this crochet pattern:

Yarn - Pound of Love from LionBrand Yarn, 1 skein = 454g/16oz, 932m/1020yd, 4 Medium/Worsted

Hooks - 10mm / N/P-15 & 6mm / J-10

Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Markers

Numbers of skeins for each size approx. 2 (3, 3, 4, 5)


Please, make your swatch before doing this pattern to make sure the cardigan will fit you.

10mm hook (for your main panel) - 10.5sts x 11 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm)

6mm hook (for your ribbing and sleeves) - 15sts x 9rows = 4” x 4”

The sizing guide follows size XS + S (M+L, XL+2XL, 3XL+4XL, 5XL). E.g. 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) means 90 for XS and S, 110 for M and L, 132 for XL and 2XL, 152 for 3XL and 4XL, 174 for 5XL)

Final measurements for this cardigan for all sizes in inches:

Bust (only the main panel without ribbing: 34 (42, 50, 58, 66)

Length: 32 for all sizes without the bottom ribbing (it’s adjustable for your own needs)

Arm depth: explained in the pattern for your size

Time breakthrough of the video:

0:00 - Introduction

0:26 - What you need for this pattern

1:16 - Directions

24:00 - How to sew the cocoon for your sleeve

28:50 - How to make an invisible knot

33:27 - How to crochet sleeves

45:36 - How to attach your sleeves to the shrug

49:16 - How to crochet ribbed border


For the main panel

1. Use your 10mm hook

2. You always make ch 1 after DC row. Ch 1 is only a turning ch.

3. You always make ch 2 after SC row. Ch 2 counts as a first DC of the next row.

4. Every odd number of the row (DC row) is the right side

5. Every even number of the row (SC row) is the wrong side

For the sleeves and ribbing

1. Use your 6mm hook

2. It’s crocheted in HDC in back loop only

3. Ch 1 is only a turning chain. Does NOT count as a stitch.

4. There’s no specific number of sts for any size as it’s explained for your needs.


Ch - chain

FDC - foundation double crochet

DC - double crochet

FPDC - front post double crochet

SC - single crochet

FHDC - foundation half double crochet

St - stitch

HDC - half double crochet

BLO - back loop only

Sl ST - slip stitch

Evergreen Cocoon Shrug on a model

Directions (YouTube 1:16)

Ch 91 (111, 133, 153, 175)

ROW 1 - Into the 3rd ch from the hook make DC, then DC in each chain until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn (continue with ROW 2).


Alpine Stitch Step 1

ROW 2 - SC in every stitch until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)

Alpine Stitch Step 2

ROW 3 - You make your first FPDC around the 2nd DC from the previous row (pull up the loop a little bit more to make your row even).

Into the next SC st from the previous row you make a regular DC. Next st FPDC around the next DC from the previous row. Now you alternate regular DC into the SC st from the previous row and FPDC around the DC from the previous row.

Your last DC should be FPDC around the last DC from the previous row. Ch 1. Turn. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)

Alpine Stitch Step 8

ROW 4 - SC in every stitch until the end of the row. Ch 2. Turn. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)

ROW 5 - Into the 2nd st make a regular DC into the SC st from the previous row. Then around the next regular DC from the previous row make FPDC. You keep alternating regular DC and FPDC until the end of the row. Your last DC should be a regular DC into the last st. Ch 1. Turn. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)

Alpine Stitch Step 9

ROW 6 - SC in every stitch until the end of the row. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)

Repeat from ROW 3 to ROW 6 until ROW 87 for all sizes! (your last row is in DC and FPDC). (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)

Cocoon Shrug Scheme

1 more thing to do before the sewing!

Divide your bottom side of the rectangle for three parts. Grab your stich markers and insert them into your 30 (36, 44, 50, 58) st from the left and from the right. So you should have 30 (38, 44, 52, 58) sts in between. From now on, this divided side will be the bottom of your cardigan.

How to sew the cocoon for your sleeves (YouTube 24:00)

Fold your corners together as you see on the picture and align the sides counting the same number of stitches.

Grab your stitch markers and measure the space for your arm hole for both sides.

Sew the sides until you get to your stitch marker. Sew the parts through every stitch. Once you are done seaming the parts, leave a long tail to sew your sleeves with.

How much space you should leave for your armhole

I personally made a 5” long space for my arm hole. You might want it bigger or smaller. Once you align your sides, use your stitch markers to hold them together (before sewing) and put your folded rectangle on to check how much space you’d need for your armhole. The shrug should end around your elbow. You can also measure your elbow around and see how much inches you need for the armhole and go from there.

How to crochet your sleeves (YouTube 33:27)

For your sleeves and edges you need your 6mm hook

This part is also very adjustable and depending on your size. When your shrug is folded and sewed together, put it on and you can see where the shrug ends on your arm. Whatever the space is between the shrug and your hand that’s how long you should make your sleeves (or as long as you’d like).

DON’T FORGET to write down your notes for your sleeve because you have to make it twice!

Ruler beside an arm

Gauge for sleeves and edges:

15sts x 9rows = 4” x 4”

Directions for the sleeves is for my 9” long sleeve. You can make it as long as you need. It doesn’t matter if you have even or odd number of sts.

Ch 34. (or whatever number of sts you desire)

ROW 1 - Make your first HDC into your 2nd ch from the hook. HDC in each st until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn. (continue with ROW 2)


2 ROW - HDC into every st in BLO. CH 1. Turn.

Repeat Row 2 until your desired width of the sleeve. (I made 22 rows so it’s right on my arm, you can make more rows or less).

Once you are done with your sleeves sew the sides together.

Sewed crochet sleeve

How to attach your sleeves to the shrug (YouTube 45:36)

Flip your cocoon wrong side out and insert your sleeve into the arm hole as you see on the picture. Grab your yarn needle and sew the sleeve all the way around the arm hole. Attach your second sleeve in the same way.

How to crochet ribbed border (YouTube 49:16)

Let’s start from the bottom where you divided your side for three parts with your stitch markers.

We will crochet the ribbing right away to the cardigan so we can avoid the sewing.

Bottom part of a cocoon shrug

Firstly we will be working on the middle part between the stitch markers for the bottom ribbing.

Insert your hook into the stitch right next to your left stitch marker (we work from the left stitch marker to the right one) and join your yarn.

For all sizes

Ch 20

ROW 1 - HDC into your 2ch from the hook until the end of the row. Once you reach the side of the cardigan make a sl st to the st so you connect your first row.

ROW 2 - Then make another sl st above so you can start your second row. Turn the ribbing like any other project and start your HDC in BLO until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn.

ROW 3 - Repeat ROW 1

ROW 4 - Repeat ROW 2

Repeat the ribbing until you reach the stitch marker.

One stitch on the side of the cardigan = one row of the ribbing.

Bottom ribbing of the evergreen cocoon shrug

Now let’s do the last part of this cardigan! Ribbing around the shrug.

Let’s start from the left bottom ribbing (as you see on the picture).

Direction where to start side ribbing

For all sizes:

Insert your hook and join your yarn.

Make as many chains as you’d like. I made 33 so it’s nicely wide and it folds when wearing it. Then continue with HDC.

On the side of the bottom ribbing when you join your first row make a sl st into the second st. For the second row, make two sl sts on the bottom ribbing. Then continue with HDC in BLO.

So for the side of the bottom ribbing when joining your rows applies 2 sts = 1 row.

Once you reach the side of the main panel (Alpine Stitch side) it’s the same way as you did the bottom ribbing 1st = 1 row.

You make HDC in BLO for the entire sides of this cardigan. When you reach your side of the bottom ribbing don’t forget to join your row into the second st (2sts = 1row).

Now it’s time for weave in the ends if you haven’t done that already and TA-DA! Your Cardigan is done!

Hope you had fun crocheting this. Feel free to share your shrug with me! I would love to see it!

4 Kommentare

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19. März

What is the wooden dowel for?

Gefällt mir
21. März
Antwort an

Oops, that's a typo! Thanks for noticing it:) There's no need for wooden dowel in this pattern 😅

Gefällt mir

03. Feb.
Mit 5 von 5 Sternen bewertet.


Gefällt mir
16. Feb.
Antwort an

Thank you so much for your feedback! It really means a lot to me! Happy Crocheting, Lenka

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Hi crocheters!

I am Lenka and I am the one behind Happy Heartsy.

I’ve been crocheting for over 7 years.

Crocheting has been my personal therapy. I like to call it a bridge to my soul.

I hope you enjoy my blog as much as I love creating the content for you. 

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