Evergreen Cocoon Shrug Free Crochet Pattern
Cozy up your wardrobe with this Evergreen Cocoon Shrug. This garment is perfect for beginners who wants to try to crochet wearables because this scheme is very simple and basically you can make it with any stitch.
I love this cardigan for its oversized and long style so I can just wrap myself in it.
I also made a video tutorial for this pattern with everything you need to know so definitely check it out if you are more a visual learner.
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This pattern and all images associated with this pattern cannot be sold or claimed as your own.
You are allowed to sell finished Evergreen Cocoon Shrug. Feel free to mention me for creating this
pattern! It would make my day and I can share your finished project on my social media if you allow.
If you need help with this pattern or you have any questions, don't hesitate to email me on
lenka@happyheartsy.com. I'll be happy to help you:)
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@happyheartsy. I would love to see your finished Evergreen Cocoon Shrug so I can share it with others.
Feel free to check my video tutorial for this pattern where I explain this pattern.
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What you need for this crochet pattern:
Yarn - Pound of Love from LionBrand Yarn, 1 skein = 454g/16oz, 932m/1020yd, 4 Medium/Worsted
Hooks - 10mm / N/P-15 & 6mm / J-10
Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Markers
Numbers of skeins for each size approx. 2 (3, 3, 4, 5)
Gauge
Please, make your swatch before doing this pattern to make sure the cardigan will fit you.
10mm hook (for your main panel) - 10.5sts x 11 rows = 4” x 4” (10cm x 10cm)
6mm hook (for your ribbing and sleeves) - 15sts x 9rows = 4” x 4”
The sizing guide follows size XS + S (M+L, XL+2XL, 3XL+4XL, 5XL). E.g. 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) means 90 for XS and S, 110 for M and L, 132 for XL and 2XL, 152 for 3XL and 4XL, 174 for 5XL)
Final measurements for this cardigan for all sizes in inches:
Bust (only the main panel without ribbing: 34 (42, 50, 58, 66)
Length: 32 for all sizes without the bottom ribbing (it’s adjustable for your own needs)
Arm depth: explained in the pattern for your size
Time breakthrough of the video:
0:00 - Introduction
0:26 - What you need for this pattern
1:16 - Directions
24:00 - How to sew the cocoon for your sleeve
28:50 - How to make an invisible knot
33:27 - How to crochet sleeves
45:36 - How to attach your sleeves to the shrug
49:16 - How to crochet ribbed border
NOTES:
For the main panel
1. Use your 10mm hook
2. You always make ch 1 after DC row. Ch 1 is only a turning ch.
3. You always make ch 2 after SC row. Ch 2 counts as a first DC of the next row.
4. Every odd number of the row (DC row) is the right side
5. Every even number of the row (SC row) is the wrong side
For the sleeves and ribbing
1. Use your 6mm hook
2. It’s crocheted in HDC in back loop only
3. Ch 1 is only a turning chain. Does NOT count as a stitch.
4. There’s no specific number of sts for any size as it’s explained for your needs.
Abbreviations:
Ch - chain
FDC - foundation double crochet
DC - double crochet
FPDC - front post double crochet
SC - single crochet
FHDC - foundation half double crochet
St - stitch
HDC - half double crochet
BLO - back loop only
Sl ST - slip stitch
Directions (YouTube 1:16)
Ch 91 (111, 133, 153, 175)
ROW 1 - Into the 3rd ch from the hook make DC, then DC in each chain until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn (continue with ROW 2).
OR
FDC 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) - counts as a first row (if you’d like to learn how to foundation double crochet, feel free to visit this link where I explain how to do so). Ch 1. Turn.
ROW 2 - SC in every stitch until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)
ROW 3 - You make your first FPDC around the 2nd DC from the previous row (pull up the loop a little bit more to make your row even).
Into the next SC st from the previous row you make a regular DC. Next st FPDC around the next DC from the previous row. Now you alternate regular DC into the SC st from the previous row and FPDC around the DC from the previous row.
Your last DC should be FPDC around the last DC from the previous row. Ch 1. Turn. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)
ROW 4 - SC in every stitch until the end of the row. Ch 2. Turn. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)
ROW 5 - Into the 2nd st make a regular DC into the SC st from the previous row. Then around the next regular DC from the previous row make FPDC. You keep alternating regular DC and FPDC until the end of the row. Your last DC should be a regular DC into the last st. Ch 1. Turn. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)
ROW 6 - SC in every stitch until the end of the row. (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)
Repeat from ROW 3 to ROW 6 until ROW 87 for all sizes! (your last row is in DC and FPDC). (total 90 (110, 132, 152, 174) sts)
1 more thing to do before the sewing!
Divide your bottom side of the rectangle for three parts. Grab your stich markers and insert them into your 30 (36, 44, 50, 58) st from the left and from the right. So you should have 30 (38, 44, 52, 58) sts in between. From now on, this divided side will be the bottom of your cardigan.
How to sew the cocoon for your sleeves (YouTube 24:00)
Fold your corners together as you see on the picture and align the sides counting the same number of stitches.
Grab your stitch markers and measure the space for your arm hole for both sides.
Sew the sides until you get to your stitch marker. Sew the parts through every stitch. Once you are done seaming the parts, leave a long tail to sew your sleeves with.
How much space you should leave for your armhole
I personally made a 5” long space for my arm hole. You might want it bigger or smaller. Once you align your sides, use your stitch markers to hold them together (before sewing) and put your folded rectangle on to check how much space you’d need for your armhole. The shrug should end around your elbow. You can also measure your elbow around and see how much inches you need for the armhole and go from there.
How to crochet your sleeves (YouTube 33:27)
For your sleeves and edges you need your 6mm hook
This part is also very adjustable and depending on your size. When your shrug is folded and sewed together, put it on and you can see where the shrug ends on your arm. Whatever the space is between the shrug and your hand that’s how long you should make your sleeves (or as long as you’d like).
DON’T FORGET to write down your notes for your sleeve because you have to make it twice!
Gauge for sleeves and edges:
15sts x 9rows = 4” x 4”
Directions for the sleeves is for my 9” long sleeve. You can make it as long as you need. It doesn’t matter if you have even or odd number of sts.
Ch 34. (or whatever number of sts you desire)
ROW 1 - Make your first HDC into your 2nd ch from the hook. HDC in each st until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn. (continue with ROW 2)
OR
ROW 1 - 33 FHDC (if you’d like to learn how to foundation half double crochet, feel free to visit this link where I explain how to do so). Ch 1. Turn.
2 ROW - HDC into every st in BLO. CH 1. Turn.
Repeat Row 2 until your desired width of the sleeve. (I made 22 rows so it’s right on my arm, you can make more rows or less).
Once you are done with your sleeves sew the sides together.
How to attach your sleeves to the shrug (YouTube 45:36)
Flip your cocoon wrong side out and insert your sleeve into the arm hole as you see on the picture. Grab your yarn needle and sew the sleeve all the way around the arm hole. Attach your second sleeve in the same way.
How to crochet ribbed border (YouTube 49:16)
Let’s start from the bottom where you divided your side for three parts with your stitch markers.
We will crochet the ribbing right away to the cardigan so we can avoid the sewing.
Firstly we will be working on the middle part between the stitch markers for the bottom ribbing.
Insert your hook into the stitch right next to your left stitch marker (we work from the left stitch marker to the right one) and join your yarn.
For all sizes
Ch 20
ROW 1 - HDC into your 2ch from the hook until the end of the row. Once you reach the side of the cardigan make a sl st to the st so you connect your first row.
ROW 2 - Then make another sl st above so you can start your second row. Turn the ribbing like any other project and start your HDC in BLO until the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn.
ROW 3 - Repeat ROW 1
ROW 4 - Repeat ROW 2
Repeat the ribbing until you reach the stitch marker.
One stitch on the side of the cardigan = one row of the ribbing.
Now let’s do the last part of this cardigan! Ribbing around the shrug.
Let’s start from the left bottom ribbing (as you see on the picture).
For all sizes:
Insert your hook and join your yarn.
Make as many chains as you’d like. I made 33 so it’s nicely wide and it folds when wearing it. Then continue with HDC.
On the side of the bottom ribbing when you join your first row make a sl st into the second st. For the second row, make two sl sts on the bottom ribbing. Then continue with HDC in BLO.
So for the side of the bottom ribbing when joining your rows applies 2 sts = 1 row.
Once you reach the side of the main panel (Alpine Stitch side) it’s the same way as you did the bottom ribbing 1st = 1 row.
You make HDC in BLO for the entire sides of this cardigan. When you reach your side of the bottom ribbing don’t forget to join your row into the second st (2sts = 1row).
Now it’s time for weave in the ends if you haven’t done that already and TA-DA! Your Cardigan is done!
Hope you had fun crocheting this. Feel free to share your shrug with me! I would love to see it!
What is the wooden dowel for?
Amazing!