Wander Crossbody Bag | Free Crochet Pattern
The Wander Crossbody Bag ended up reminding me of something I really needed to hear myself: take your time.
I am usually the person who wants to finish a project, write the pattern, take the pictures and get it out into the world as quickly as possible. :) But with this one, I kept reminding myself that the extra step is always worth it.
Adding the lining. Adding the closure. Blocking it. Taking the time to make the I-Cord strap. Even those little finishing details that are so tempting to skip when you’re excited to be done.
And I think that applies to so much more than crochet. Sometimes it’s those extra steps, the little details and the things that take a bit more time that actually push you forward. You don’t always have to rush to get to the next thing.
So the Wander Bag became a little reminder for me to slow down, enjoy the process and give things the time they deserve.
And now I’m so excited to finally share the pattern with you!
If you'd like to support my work and get a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, please visit my shop or Ravelry.
HUGE THANKS to everyone who supports me through purchases, likes, shares, comments, tags, or feedback! It truly means a lot to me.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for products I use and genuinely enjoy, including the yarn used for this project and the Caydo i-Cord Knitting Machine. The i-Cord machine was gifted to me by Caydo. I may earn a small commission if you purchase through my affiliate links, at no additional cost to you. I would never recommend or share a product with you just because I can earn a commission. If I didn’t genuinely like and use it myself, I wouldn’t recommend it to you. This post also displays ads. Revenue from ads and affiliate links helps support my small business and allows me to continue sharing free crochet patterns and content with you. Thank you so much for your support! It means a lot to me.
This pattern and all images associated with this pattern cannot be sold or claimed as your own. You are allowed to sell finished project. Feel free to mention me for creating this pattern, it would make my day and I can share your finished project on my social media if you allow.
Don’t forget to share your project on Instagram! If you have your account you can tag me under @happyheartsy. I would love to see your finished Wander Crossbody Bag so I can share it with others.
Before we get into the pattern, I also created The Ultimate Crochet Hack Sheet, a handy 2-page PDF designed to keep your crochet essentials in one place.
Inside, you'll find crochet abbreviations and symbols, hook size conversions (US and UK), yarn types with recommended hook sizes and project ideas, and other quick-reference guides that are useful to keep nearby while crocheting.
Feel free to click on the image below or visit my shop to learn more.
What you need for this Wander Crossbody Bag:
Materials:
Yarn Used for the Bag:
Colour A - Butterscotch - 49g
Colour B - Swan - 38g
Colour C - Ash - 18g
Hooks - 5mm/H/8
Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Marker (optional)
Optional Materials:
Any closure (button, magnetic button, zipper), fabric for lining
Gauge - 18 sts x 14 rows = 4" x 4"
Measurements - 6.5" W x 9" L(without strap, folded)
NOTES:
This pattern is made in Single Crochet (SC), working in Back Loop Only (BLO) on the Right Side (RS) and Front Loop Only (FLO) on the Wrong Side (WS). Use the Yarn Under (YU) technique throughout the pattern.
Chain (Ch) 1 at the end of each row does NOT count as a Stitch (St). It is a turning Ch only.
The yarn is not carried through the stitches. I use floats on the wrong side of the work, as only one side of the colourwork will be visible.
Do not cut the yarn after every colour change. Leave the unused colour floating along the wrong side and pick it up again when needed.
Keep your floats loose enough so they don’t pull the stitches together or cause your work to shrink in width.
The bag is worked as one long rectangle and then folded to create the body and flap.
Adding a fabric lining is optional.
Adding a closure is optional.
Abbreviations:
Ch - chain
YU - Yarn Under
SC - Single Crochet
BLO - Back Loop Only
FLO - Front Loop Only
RS - Right Side
WS - Wrong Side
ST - Stitch
Directions
Ch 28
ROW 1 RS - Single Crochet (SC) into the 2nd Chain (Ch) from the hook. SC in every Ch across the row. Ch 1 and turn. (27 sts)
TIP:
For a cleaner edge, work Row 1 into the back bumps of the Foundation Chain (FCH). When looking at the FCH from the top, you will see the usual “V” shapes. Turn the chain over to find the bumps along the back. Each bump represents one Ch. Insert your hook into each bump to make your SC.
When inserting your hook into the Ch, Yarn Under (YU) and pull up a loop. Then Yarn Over (YO) and pull through both loops to complete the SC.
ROW 2 WS – SC across the entire row. This is a plain SC row. Ch 1 and turn. (27 sts)
ROW 3 RS – YT Tutorial 9:59
SC in Back Loop Only (BLO) across the entire row. From now on, every ODD-numbered row (RS) is worked in BLO. Ch 1 and turn. (27 sts)
ROW 4 WS - YT Tutorial 17:32
SC in Front Loop Only (FLO) across the entire row. From now on, every EVEN-numbered row (WS) is worked in FLO. Ch 1 and turn. (27 sts)
NOTE:
When working the colourwork, keep all unused yarn strands and floats on the Wrong Side (WS) of your project. When working a FLO row on the WS, keep the strands and floats in front of your work as you crochet.
How to Join & Change Yarn Colour:
When working the last SC in your current colour, don’t complete the stitch. Once you have two loops on your hook, place the new yarn colour over the hook and pull it through both loops. This completes the last SC in the previous colour, while your new colour is already joined and ready for the next stitch.
When you complete the stitch in a certain colour, keep the unused yarn strand either behind or in front of your work, depending on which side you are working on. Continue making stitches with your current colour. Once you need to switch back, simply pick up the unused colour from behind/in front of your work and change the colour the same way as explained above.
Always make sure the floats stay on the Wrong Side (WS) of your project.
In the chart on the next page, you will see a table with numbers on different colour backgrounds. The number tells you how many stitches to make, and the background colour tells you which yarn colour to use.
← ROW 1 [RS] - 27A → ROW 2 [WS] - 27A
← ROW 3 [RS] - 7A, 6B, 1C, 6B, 7A
→ ROW 4 [WS] - 6A, 6B, 3C, 6B, 6A
← ROW 5 [RS] - 5A, 6B, 5C, 6B, 5A
→ ROW 6 [WS] - 4A, 6B, 7C, 6B, 4A
← ROW 7 [RS] - 3A, 6B, 9C, 6B, 3A
→ ROW 8 [WS] - 2A, 6B, 11C, 6B, 2A
← ROW 9 [RS] - 1A, 6B, 6C, 1B, 6C, 6B, 1A
→ ROW 10 [WS] - 6B, 6C, 3B, 6C, 6B
← ROW 11 [RS] - 5B, 6C, 5B, 6C, 5B
→ ROW 12 [WS] - 4B, 6C, 7B, 6C, 4B ← ROW 13 [RS] - 3B, 6C, 9B, 6C, 3B → ROW 14 [WS] - 2B, 6C, 11B, 6C, 2B
← ROW 15 [RS] - 1B, 6C, 6B, 1A, 6B, 6C, 1B
→ ROW 16 [WS] - 6C, 6B, 3A, 6B, 6C
← ROW 17 [RS] - 5C, 6B, 5A, 6B, 5C
→ ROW 18 [WS] - 4C, 6B, 7A, 6B, 4C
← ROW 19 [RS] - 3C, 6B, 9A, 6B, 3C
→ ROW 20 [WS] - 2C, 6B, 11A, 6B, 2C
← ROW 21 [RS] - 1C, 6B, 6A, 1B, 6A, 6B, 1C
→ ROW 22 [WS] - 6B, 6A, 3B, 6A, 6B
← ROW 23 [RS] - 5B, 6A, 5B, 6A, 5B
→ ROW 24 [WS] - 4B, 6A, 7B, 6A, 4B
← ROW 25 [RS] - 3B, 6A, 9B, 6A, 3B
→ ROW 26 [WS] - 2B, 6A, 11B, 6A, 2B
← ROW 27 [RS] - 1B, 6A, 6B, 1C, 6B, 6A, 1B
→ ROW 28 [WS] - 6A, 6B, 3C, 6B, 6A
← ROW 29 [RS] - 5A, 6B, 5C, 6B, 5A
→ ROW 30 [WS] - 4A, 6B, 7C, 6B, 4A
← ROW 31 [RS] - 3A, 6B, 9C, 6B, 3A
→ ROW 32 [WS] - 2A, 6B, 11C, 6B, 2A
← ROW 33 [RS] - 1A, 6B, 6C, 1B, 6C, 6B, 1A
→ ROW 34 [WS] - 6C, 6B, 3C, 6B, 6C
← ROW 35 [RS] - 5C, 6B, 5C, 6B, 5C
→ ROW 36 [WS] - 4C, 6B, 7C, 6B, 4C
← ROW 37 [RS] - 3C, 6B, 9C, 6B, 3C
→ ROW 38 [WS] - 2C, 6B, 11C, 6B, 2C
← ROW 39 [RS] - 1C, 6B, 6C, 1A, 6C, 6B, 1C
→ ROW 40 [WS] - 6C, 6B, 3A, 6B, 6C
← ROW 41 [RS] - 5C, 6B, 5A, 6B, 5C
→ ROW 42 [WS] - 4C, 6B, 7A, 6B, 4C
← ROW 43 [RS] - 3C, 6B, 9A, 6B, 3C
→ ROW 44 [WS] - 2C, 6B, 11A, 6B, 2C
← ROW 45 [RS] - 1C, 6B, 6A, 1B, 6A, 6B, 1C
→ ROW 46 [WS] - 6C, 6A, 3B, 6A, 6C
← ROW 47 [RS] - 5C, 6A, 5B, 6A, 5C
→ ROW 48 [WS] - 4C, 6A, 7B, 6A, 4C
← ROW 49 [RS] - 3C, 6A, 9B, 6A, 3C
→ ROW 50 [WS] - 2C, 6A, 11B, 6A, 2C
← ROW 51 [RS] - 1C, 6A, 6B, 1C, 6B, 6A, 1C
→ ROW 52 [WS] - 6C, 6B, 3C, 6B, 6C
← ROW 53 [RS] - 5C, 6B, 5C, 6B, 5C
→ ROW 54 [WS] - 4C, 6B, 7C, 6B, 4C
← ROW 55 [RS] - 3C, 6B, 9C, 6B, 3C
→ ROW 56 [WS] - 2C, 6B, 11C, 6B, 2C
← ROW 57 [RS] - 27A
→ ROW 58 [WS] - 27A
← ROW 59 [RS] - 7C, 6B, 1A, 6B, 7C
→ ROW 60 [WS] - 6C, 6B, 3A, 6B, 6C
← ROW 61 [RS] - 5C, 6B, 5A, 6B, 5C
→ ROW 62 [WS] - 4C, 6B, 7A, 6B, 4C
← ROW 63 [RS] - 3C, 6B, 9A, 6B, 3C
→ ROW 64 [WS] - 2C, 6B, 11A, 6B, 2C
← ROW 65 [RS] - 1C, 6B, 6A, 1B, 6A, 6B, 1C
→ ROW 66 [WS] - 6B, 6A, 3C, 6A, 6B
← ROW 67 [RS] - 5B, 6A, 5C, 6A, 5B
→ ROW 68 [WS] - 4B, 6A, 7C, 6A, 4B
← ROW 69 [RS] - 3B, 6A, 9C, 6A, 3B
→ ROW 70 [WS] - 2B, 6A, 11C, 6A, 2B
← ROW 71 [RS] - 1B, 6A, 6C, 1B, 6C, 6A, 1B
→ ROW 72 [WS] - 6B, 6A, 3C, 6A, 6B
← ROW 73 [RS] - 5B, 6A, 5C, 6A, 5B
→ ROW 74 [WS] - 4B, 6A, 7C, 6A, 4B
← ROW 75 [RS] - 3B, 6A, 9C, 6A, 3B
→ ROW 76 [WS] - 2B, 6A, 11C, 6A, 2B
← ROW 77 [RS] - 1B, 6A, 6C, 1B, 6C, 6A, 1B
→ ROW 78 [WS] - 6A, 6B, 3C, 6B, 6A
← ROW 79 [RS] - 5A, 6B, 5C, 6B, 5A
→ ROW 80 [WS] - 4A, 6B, 7C, 6B, 4A
← ROW 81 [RS] - 3A, 6B, 9C, 6B, 3A
→ ROW 82 [WS] - 2A, 6B, 11C, 6B, 2A
Blocking & Lining (optional)
Your rectangle is finished, and now you have the option to block it and add a lining.
Blocking:
I did block mine. I noticed that the beginning of my rectangle was slightly looser than the rest, especially once I started changing colours and working with floats. Blocking really helped to even everything out and straighten the sides.
I would recommend blocking your rectangle, but of course, if you already have nice, straight edges, don’t worry about it. :)
Lining:
Lining your bag is another optional step. At first, I wasn’t planning on adding one, but because of the floats on the WS, I realized that keys or other items inside the bag could easily catch on them. Also, because the top of the rectangle becomes the flap of the bag, part of the WS would be visible when the flap is open. So, I decided to take that extra step. :)
I purchased 100% cotton muslin fabric and cut a rectangle slightly larger than my crocheted rectangle. Using pins, I folded the edges of the fabric inward to create clean edges. I also folded the fabric to make sure it would fit nicely inside the finished bag.
Place the fabric on the WS of your crocheted rectangle, with all the folded raw edges facing underneath, so only the nice, finished side of the fabric is visible.
Sew around all the edges to attach the lining to the crocheted rectangle. I didn’t want the stitches to be visible on the lining, so when inserting the needle, I only went through the folded layer along the edge of the fabric, rather than pushing the needle all the way through to the front of the lining.
Closure (optional)
For this bag, I decided to use magnetic buttons. I am always paranoid that my items will get lost if I don’t have a zipper, button, or something else to secure the bag. :)
If you happen to have magnetic buttons too, they are really amazing for this! They have small holes in each corner, so you can easily sew them onto your project.
You may have noticed that there are 2 plain rows at the beginning and around ⅔ of the way through the crocheted rectangle. These mark where the opening of the bag will be. Once you fold the rectangle and align the sides, these two plain sections should line up with each other.
This is also where I attached the magnetic buttons, so they line up when the flap is closed.
I-Cord
YT Tutorial 42:50
Ch 3. Insert your hook into the 2nd Ch from the hook and pull up a loop. Keep the loop on your hook. Insert your hook into the next Ch (the last Ch) and pull up another loop. You should now have 3 loops on your hook.
Now comes the tricky part.:) Carefully slide the first 2 loops off your hook. Make sure you don’t lose them! With the remaining loop on your hook, YO and pull through the loop.
Place the next loop back onto your hook. YO and pull through that loop, keeping the new loop on your hook. Place the last loop back onto your hook. YO and pull through that loop. You should now have 3 loops on your hook again.
Repeat this process until your i-cord reaches your desired length.
Machine I-Cord
I had a beautiful opportunity to receive an I-Cord knitting machine, and the timing couldn’t have been better since I was already working on this bag!
If you’d like to make your I-Cord using a machine instead, feel free to check out the one I used through the link below. I honestly really like the machine for making straps and other projects. The I-Cord comes out nice, even and sturdy, and you can see the finished straps on my Wander Crossbody Bag in the pictures.
Seaming the Bag & Attaching the Strap
Once your I-Cord is finished, now it’s time to seam the bag and attach the strap. We will do it all at once. :)
Place one end of your I-Cord at the bottom of one side of the bag. Grab your yarn needle and threaded yarn.
Insert your yarn needle through the front side of the bag, then through the I-Cord, and then through the back side of the bag. Pull the yarn through. Make a double knot to secure the yarn tail right away, then weave in the tail.
Now, starting from the back of the bag, insert your yarn needle through the back side of the bag, then through the I-Cord, and finally through the front side. Continue seaming this way, going back and forth through the bag and I-Cord, until you reach the top of the bag.
Once you are done with one side, seam the other side the same way.
Tip:
When inserting the needle through the bag, try to insert it through the stitches so the seam won’t be visible.
Border Around the Flap
Now it’s time for the very last touch! :)
Make a simple border around the flap by working SC evenly around all three sides. This will give the flap cleaner edges and make the whole bag look more finished.
Ta-daa! Your Wander Bag is done!
I hope you enjoyed making your Wander Crossbody Bag as much as I enjoyed designing it! This project became a little reminder for me to slow down, enjoy the process and appreciate all those extra little steps that make the final result feel even more special. :)
Now it’s your turn to take your Wander Bag on some adventures!
And as always, I would absolutely LOVE to see yours! Tag me @happyheartsy on social media so I can see your colour combinations and share your beautiful creations.
Happy Crocheting! Lenka
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